You can keep an outdoor worm bed going year-round, provided it’s in a spot that isn’t susceptible to freezing during the winter months. It’s generally not a good idea to raise worms inside your actual home. Not only will your bed likely emit an unpleasant odor, there’s always a chance that one or more worms could find their way out of the container.
If you know your way around a toolbox, consider constructing your own customized worm bed to your preferred specifications using your materials of choice. [3] X Research source The exact dimensions of your worm bed aren’t important. All that matters is that you provide an enclosed space with enough room to house your worms comfortably.
Avoid using a bit larger than about 3⁄8 in (0. 95 cm), or smaller species of worms may be able to squeeze their way out. The large holes at the top of the container will allow your worms to breathe inside the lidded container, while the smaller holes at the bottom will filter out excess water and waste products.
A paper shredder can quickly reduce your bedding material to fine, consistently-sized strips, if you have access to one. Steer clear of scrap paper printed with colored dyes. These can be toxic to many species of worms.
Any type of well-balanced organic potting soil will work just fine. Break up any large clumps of soil or peat moss by hand.
Be careful not to add so much water that it begins pooling on the surface of the soil. Too much water could put your worms at risk of drowning. [8] X Trustworthy Source United States Environmental Protection Agency Independent U. S. government agency responsible for promoting safe environmental practices Go to source Following your initial watering, you’ll want to give the soil a good dousing periodically (at least once every few days) to keep it moist.
Red worms and nightcrawlers are the 2 most common varieties of worms used as live bait. If you’re not sure what type of worms to buy, research the feeding habits of the fish you’re hoping to catch. Trout and perch, for example, are drawn to small, manageable bait like mealworms, while fat red worms and nightcrawlers are a favorite meal of catfish, walleye, bass, and other big swimmers. [9] X Research source
Be gentle when transferring the worms from one container to the other. If you’re not careful, you could hurt them. A good rule of thumb is to add about 2 dozen worms for every 1 square foot (0. 093 m2) of available bedding space.
If you’re using an insulated foam container, you shouldn’t have to worry about your worm bed getting too hot or cold, even during the height of the summer and winter seasons. Worms will attempt to evacuate soil that’s below freezing, and can shrivel and die in soil that’s 95 °F (35 °C) or warmer. [12] X Trustworthy Source Penn State Extension Educational organization dedicated to delivering science-based information to people, businesses, and communities Go to source Keep the container in a cool place, in the fridge, in the shade, under a tree, or under a bench.
Some anglers with experience growing their own worms recommend mixing the compost into your bedding before adding your worms to the container to ensure that the soil is full of nutrients. Another option is to purchase a premade worm food that’s specially formulated to plump up your bait worms. You’ll find packages of worm food at any bait and tackle shop.
If you don’t want to wait for the worms to move on their own, you can also comb through the soil by hand or with a small rake to carefully coax them to one side of the container. Recycle the nutrient-rich soil you remove by using it in your garden or flower beds. [15] X Research source
